Sunday 29 July 2012

Overcoming white knuckles

If you have read any of the earlier posts, you might have noticed that one of the items on my to do list while we're away is to learn to drive a manual car. It's embarrassing to admit it but I've never learnt how. I was taught to drive on an automatic and never needed to drive anything other than a manual....until now.

Shane has been looking at buying a car whilst we are here, which, assuming we don't right it off and can sell it before leaving, works out cheaper than hiring a car for the entire time we're os. Unfortunately for me, the cars he has seen have all been manual. Does nobody drive an automatic over here?
As he shows me the cars on offer online, I can feel my stress levels rising. But...but...what about meeeeee???? How am I going to get around???? Learning how to drive a manual was always on the B side of my to do list, not really something I thought I would have to do.

As Wikihow tells me, "Luckily, the basic concepts of starting to move a manual transmission car and shifting through the gears is a process anyone can learn." Reassuring. How about doing it on the wrong side of the road at the same time?
I'm starting to understand how people feel when they lose their license. Disempowered is a word that springs to mind...


Anyway, 4 weeks in, and without going into too much detail because some things are better kept to yourself there have been a couple of little hiccups but all in all I am proud to say I have made it, I did it!


Small challenges have included:

  • Previously mentioned heckling and Sam screaming 'CLUTCH', followed by forced words of support by offspring so I don't throw them out of the car
  • Stalling in between an automatic gate as it closes with Shane pushing the gate out so we don't get 'crushed' 
  • Learning the hard way that despite most cars moving into the far lane so cars coming onto the freeway can merge, not all of them do it, so don't expect buses and trucks to do it for you
  • Stalling repeatedly at the entrance to a carpark, and having to get out to let your husband do it - I hang my head in shame
  • Stalling the car so many times on a hill that a) the car alarm goes off because it thinks you're trying to steal it and b) a lovely old man stops on the road to offer help because he thinks you've broken down.
Enough said.

Party of 9 in Rome


Rome day trip  

Inner turmoil at the thought of wearing sneakers, but an ultimately wise & practical decision 


The Freccia Rossa!
We make a trip into Rome with all the kids for a day. It's a huge day of walking for the kids and they are destroyed by the end (they're not the only ones). It only takes an hour on the train from Terni which is a 40 min drive from here... Provided the tickets aren't sold out once you get to the station, it's pretty straight forward...the one bonus of sold out tickets is the 'necessity' of buying Freccia Rossa/Eurostar tickets and traveling first class because they were the only tickets left.

If anyone has tried to use the trenitalia website to pre-book tickets for more than one person, hats off to you. That website is one of the worst user experiences, some might say indicative of how difficult it can be to get anything done here, enough said...marketing hat and cynical hats are off again...we're still smiling!

Doing our bit for the Italian economy 


AMAZING STAT ACCORDING TO NATHAN'S RESEARCH:

700,000 euro is thrown into Trevi fountain every year

Natural curl, no soul glo required






Pantheon, our favorite monument





Piazza Navona


Heslops on tour :)

Heading home!


Saturday 28 July 2012

Full house

After Shane gets back from the Tour, it's nice to have a full house with Tania, John, Jack and Elly staying with us for a couple of weeks. Charlie and Sam have Elly and Jack to play with who are great kids, love their sport, and are a bit older too so the boys listen to them more than me!

Tania and I get into the running and the coffee in the piazza in Montecastello di Vibio is an appropriate reward for sweating up those bastard hills in 30+ degree heat. Johnny and Shane have loot from the tour caravans that the kids are still getting mileage from...check it out! Basically what happens during the tour is that cars/vans drive along the roads ahead of the cyclists throwing free promo stuff off the vans - the age-old equation of loud music, hot promo girls and free stuff keeps the crowd happy while they wait for the peloton for hours.

Days are filled by the pool, relaxing, cooking and drinking...after a few days Nath joins us too, making it a reunion of Shane's best mates from his childhood in Bendigo. We're lucky to be able to share this place with these guys.

It's not just our house that fills up. The owners, David and Jenny, live in a house on the property as well and are hosting a musical MasterClass in MonteCastello di Vibio. Their house is full of musicians from America, the UK, and their entourage which consist of their families & friends.

Shane makes friends with one of the musician's daughters who is also a jazz singer and keen bike rider - after cycling from London to Gibraltar in Spain she's pretty handy at changing his flat tyres. They head off on rides most mornings...nice work Jo.








Dinner in Todi is a hit, with a stellar view, an apricot tree right next to our table, and dessert at the local gelateria keeping everyone happy







Johnny enjoying the poolside shower

Jack, Charlie and Sam looking for frogs in the pond next to the pool & relaxing underthesun 

Mandatory day trip to Perugia and the Perugina chocolate factory...despite BACI chocolate production stopping for the summer (and at 43 degrees I can see why), the cocoa bean wall and tasting room kept the troops happy, and there were even people in white coats who at a stretch classified as Italian oompa loompas...



BEST RESTAURANT SO FAR


We found a great restaurant in Montecastello di Vibio called Il Grottino di Zio Totto where I'm going to do cooking classes in a few weeks. It's basically in the garden of Massimo's house where he cooks what he has and you can call ahead to have specialties like fresh rabbit, pigeon, truffle pasta. The highlight of the place, in addition to gorgeous Massimo, is the soccer pitch just beneath the restaurant balcony, making it a great place to take kids - woohoo, what a find!!!

Orvieto  Duomo





ORVIETO

An afternoon drive to Orvieto proves a worthwhile trip, it's a beautiful town and we will definitely be back. There are a lot of artisans and creative shopfronts, beyond the typical tourist spots that promote their ceramics and local produce.

The Duomo also impressed, especially with a little bit of wind in the afternoon, perfect kite flying conditions.

My driving capabilities in a manual car have definitely improved, the only stall(s) on that trip being at the car park boom gate which required a more experienced hand to take over so we could get in
























Thursday 26 July 2012

Is tanorexia contagious?

Having grown up in Perth and Brisbane in the 80s and 90s, I'm a bit partial to a tan, however after living in Melbourne for the past 15+ years, being of fair complexion myself and having a ginger son, lying in the sun on purpose doesn't really seem like the right thing to do.

I've typically embraced my paleness, opting for a rashy top during summer (a must have fashion item for all mums if they want their kids to wear one without arguments), happy to cover up and wear hats during summer and always wearing 30+ sunscreen.

If you have read Yellowtrace recently, you might know about Humanæ, concieved by Brazilian artist Angelica Dass, a chromatic inventory of human skin referencing the PANTONE® colors....if I was a pantone color, I might be Pantone 99-8C...not a lot of tanning potential there really.

Drop me in Italy, however, where all sun products contain keratin to make you look browner, where a tan can take 5kgs off a person and tans are a legitimate conversation topic, and I have to admit that this fair
skinned aussie is wavering just a little...I hate to say it but I have gone for runs without any sunscreen (Except on my face) and have even spent 10 minutes lying in the sun by the pool.


Needless to say, no matter how hard I try, a Pantone 99-8C will never look like this......sigh....

Shane heads to the Tour, Eli and boys stay back at the ranch

2 days after we arrive in Montecastello di Vibio, Shane leaves for the Tour de France for 5 days. Despite a couple of lessons in the car, I still don't feel up to driving a manual with the kids in the car, so Shane happily takes the car for the 7 hour commute up north to meet Macca and get their hire bikes from Andrea, Shane's new best friend in Biella who owns a bike shop - this guy is lovely, far too fit for the average human (his weekend activities include climbing mountains that are 4500 high) but because he's so nice it's hard to hold it against him...

The bikes they get aren't really top of the range, and Macca ends up riding up the Col de la Madeleine (2000m) with a bike not really made for mountains as big as this baby

Destroyed
Triumphant
 Col de la Madeleine, Macca struggled and walked the last 7 kms, Shane powered through and made it to 19kms out of the savage 21 kms



Mr Lycra with Mr Funny Pants
While Shane's away having fun in France Eli, Charlie and Sam made friends with Danilo and Helena next door, went on tractor rides, caught a taxi to Todi with Carlo the friendly taxi driver and the only man who knows how to find this house bc it doesn't appear on the GPS...and I cooked and cooked and cooked...

  
Charlie is a fish in the water and Sammy has a mean ping pong serve, especially when he plays in his undies
                                       











How can a driveway be this stunning?!!

 

The view from the garden to Todi







Apologies for the photo placement I am still learning how to use this and post photos!!

Arriving in Umbria


It's been a very hot July according to the locals, temperatures haven't gotten below 35 for most days. We arrived in Montecastello di Vibio on July 8th or 9th if memory serves. We couldn't find our place using the directions the owners gave us (not great with maps OR directions it seems) so Danilo, who lives on the property with his wife and son and are the official 'caretakers' drove up to town to meet us and lead us down.  A lot of the streets outside of town have the same names - Via del Furioso, Via della Barca, and Via Le Favette - our 'street', which is a dirt road near some pretty savage hills...


The day we arrived, Nick and Jo W joined us for a couple of nights - they'd joined us at the end of their France/Italy holiday. We walked into town on the first night and found a festival, after the hike up the hill with some welcome assistance from Nick, the boys ran wild and had a dance with the locals on the dance floor with a band that made me feel like I was at an Italian wedding...


 
The next few days were spent idyll by the pool, visiting Todi and me trying to drive a manual car with 5 people giving me moral support - despite best intentions, a four year old yelling 'CLUTCH MUMMY' isn't that helpful!

poolside
funicular up to Todi